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As
our boat slowly cut its way through the still
waters of the river, the egrets on the bank
spread their wings and took to the air. We were
making our way up the Bartın River from its estuary on the Black Sea to the town of the
same name. Weeping willows bent towards the
green water, and grey mullet leapt into view
and splashed back again. I whispered to them
the ancient name of Parthenios, but received
no reply. So who was to tell the story of Bartın?
The boat builders hard at work on the rib cages
of half-finished
fishing boats; the women selling their
wares in Garıla Market; the old houses
filled with such nostalgic memories of childhood;
or the young girls working their embroidery
at the windows? A large elderly boat coming in the other direction
grumbled to itself, 'Who but I can describe
Bartın? I who know all the difficulties of both
sea and river, land and men!' True, but we were
eager to get on to the Orduyeri Bridge, and
there mingle with the townsfolk and explore the streets. Flower gardens,
women rolling out pastry, cats asleep on roofs, dilapidated wooden houses resolved
to stay on their feet, and memories awaited
us there. The Ottoman houses of Bartın, with their lace
curtains at the windows, are the last representatives
of the past. Within, trousseau chests contain the cloths embroidered with sequins known as
çatkı worn by young girls at weddings, handwoven
undershirts known as göynek, embroidered yellow
waistcoats and other treasured items. Some handcrafts
have died out, but the so-called 'broken wire
work' of this region is still very much alive. This embroidery is worked with silver wire and
coloured silks. In the province of Bartın woodworking
of all kinds used to be among the principal
occupations. Linden, boxwood, and walnut were sawn, carved
and shaped into boats, ships, houses, carved shutters and ceilings, and the 17th century
writer Evliya Çelebi records that galleons were
built here. Even today boat building remains
a flourishing trade at Bartın, Kurucaşile, Tekkeönü,
Kapısuyu and Amasra. The centre of Bartın was bustling with
shoppers and tradesmen. People
were quenching their thirst at
the fountain built in 1912 by the sea captain
Karakaşoğlu Hacı Arif Kaptan. Known as Kavşak
Suyu, this spring water is renowned for its
fine flavour. On Tuesdays and Fridays women
from the locality set up their stalls and sell home-grown vegetables and fruit, milk and home-made
yoghurt at the Garıla or Women's Market. Historic
buildings in the town include the old two-storey
stone han with 18 rooms, known as Taşhan, where
merchants transacted business in Ottoman times,
and the later Dervişoğlu Han, built in 1897. The latter is a red painted building which has
recently been restored. Both these
hans now house restaurants. The Ministry
of Culture and Provincial Cultural Office have
launched a restoration programme for the provincsei
historic buildings, including the castle walls and church in the nearby town of Amasra. A museum
is now being established in the same town, and
a local beauty spot, Ulukaya Falls, is now lit
up at night. Encouraging local awareness of
the provincsss natural and historic heritage
is a primary aim of the officsg work. Amasra, named after an ancient
princess, is at least as famous
as Bartın itself, and attracts many
visitors at weekends. This lovely small
town, with its small harbour, Kuşkayası Monument,
and city walls, is also renowned for its fish
restaurants. During the summer months the beaches
of Çakraz, Akkonak, Göçkün and Cambu between
Amasra and Kurucaşile, and to the west between
Bartın and Zonguldak the beaches of İnkumu,
Güzelcehisar, Mogada and Kızılkum are favourite
spots. On fine evenings
people drive out to İnkumu Beach or
flock to the tea garden in Amasra to watch
the sunset, as the golden ball of the evening
sun descends towards the horizon. Over half of the province is
thickly forested, the most
beautiful woodland scenery reputedly being
at Ulus. In autumn strings of peppers are
hung up on the cottage walls to dry and
mushrooms spring up in abundant diversity after
rainfall. In spring the place of mushrooms is
taken by flowers, and the air fills with the
sound of bees humming, birds singing, and herdsmen
whistling. The Black Sea also undergoes dramatic
changes from season to season, the fierce waves
of winter making way for a more gentle character
in summer, as the water laps beneath the rocks.
In the hot summer months many people stay in
mountain huts on the high pastures of Arıt and
Uluyayla, enjoying the fresh mountain air, fast
running streams, and butterflies winging their way over the green grass. The
cave of Gürcüoluk, with its many stalactites, stalagmites and galleries, at the village of
Karakaçak near Amasra is another sight which
attracts curious visitors. The people of Bartın have a saying that
anyone who has once drunk Kavşak
Water can never drag themselves away. Certainly we regretted that
the time had come for us to go. We paid one
last visit to the elderly boat we had passed
on arrival. It seemed to be humming a folk song
to itself: 'Can we pass through the strait?
/ Is to wander our fate? / Wipe your tears away
/ Reunited I hope we may.'
Nezahat Turkan is a freelance writer Source: Skylife
12/2001
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