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ECOLOGY & ENVIRONMENT

   Turkey is one of those countries straddling the environmental dilemma. Much of the country still lives in the pre-pollution era of frugal living, home-made goods and dungcake fuel, but urban dwellers are well into the lifestyle of quickly changing fashion and disposable everything. Village dwellers are
just leaving the era when environmental concern was not necessary, and urbanites are just discovering it as a major problem.

   There is an environmental movement in Turkey, and it is making some progress. Some cities attempt to recycle glass and metal, and Bosphorus restaurants now seem to refrain from disposing of food waste right into the water. Sewage treatment plants are being built, but as these projects are expensive and Turkey is hardly a rich country, it will take time. At least vessels - including yachts - in 'Ilýrkish waters are prohibited by law from emptying waste into the seas, though it still happens because of insuffýcient enforcement.

   The best thing that you, the traveler, can do to help the cause of environmental protection in Turkey is to set a good example and encourage local efforts. Despite the insufficient number of rubbish bins, don't litter, and if you see others littering, suggest that they dispose of it properly. Complain to local tourism offices about litter on beaches or sewage near swimming areas. Ask for non-smoking buses, even if it's plain that none exist on your route.

   Remember always that you are a guest in Turkey, and that Turkey does not yet have anywhere near the financial resources or technical expertise - or foree of public concern - for these issues as exists in the western countries. A superior, preachy attitude may do more harm than good, but acting the part of environmental advocate will hasten the adoption of similar attitudes by the Turks.

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FLORA & FAUNA

   Once cloaked in dense forest, after mil~lennia of woodcutting Anatolia is now largely denuded. The government encourages conservation and reforestation, but the great forests will never retum. The Mediterraneatý coast west of Antalya, the Black Sea area and northeastern Anatolia still have forests of considerable size. Elsewhere, the great swaddles of wild flowers which cover  rolling steppes in spring make fine splashes of colour.

   Because of Turkey's temperate climate, domesticated plants such as apples, apricots, bananas, cherries, citrus fruit, cotton, date palms, grapes, sugar beet, sunflowers and tobacco thrive. The long roots of deliciously sweet kavun melons go deep into the dry soil of the Anatolian Plateau to find water. Turkey grows much of the world's supply of hazelnuts (filberts), and a large volume of pistachios and walnuts. Of the cash crops, cotton is king, and grains such as wheat and barley are important.

   Turkey has similar animal life to that in the Balkans and much of Europe: bears, deer, jackals, lynx, wild boars, wolves and rare leopards. Besides the usual domestic animals such as cattle, horses, donkeys, goats and several varieties of sheep (including the fattail), there are camels and water buffalo. (Though most yoghurt is made from cow's milk, that from sheep's milk is richer, and that from water buffalo's milk is richer still.)

   Turkish shepherds are proud of their big, powerful and fierce Kangal sheep dogs which guard the flocks from hungry wolves. The breed is now controlled, and export is only allowed under license. The same goes for beautiful Van cats, with pure white fur and different-colored eyes - one blue, one green.

   Bird life is exceptionally rich, with many eagles, vultures and storks, as well as rare species such as the bald ibis, now nearly extinct except for a few birds which visit Birecik, between Gaziantep and Sanliurfa, each year. In several parts of the country reserves have been set aside as kuþ cenneti (bird paradises).

   Turkey's coastal waters have rich varieties of fish, shellfish and other sea creatures, though overfishing and pollution are now serious problems.

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